Rating: **** The Corn Mill sits in an enviable position, perched dramatically over the River Dee in the beautiful Welsh town of Llangollen. Its position alone draws people to the pub and restaurant - not only locals but visitors from across Britain and much further afield.
But what is it that makes people return time and time again? It was the position that made the Austins and Appletons chose the Corn Mill to celebrate Sophie and Emma’s 16th birthdays.
We had decided to have a walk before our meal and set out from the town to conquer the imposing Castel Dinas Bran.
The middle aged in our group were soon puffing and panting but we forgot our struggle when we reached the top to be rewarded with stunning views across the Dee Valley and the dramatic ancient castle ruins.
The walk also served the purpose of building up an appetite for our late Sunday afternoon meal.
Once back down in Llangollen we appreciated the warm, welcoming atmosphere of the Corn Mill and the excellent choice of real ales to quench our thirst. Carol loved her Spitting Feathers stout and my Inch’s cider was excellent.
The building’s history can be traced back at least 700 years, and owes its foundation to the Cistercian monks of Valle Crucis. It was re-built in 1786 with three pairs of grinding stones, and continued as a working mill up until 1974.
It was tastefully restored with the inclusion of a spectacular decking over the waters that fed the waterwheel.
Although a large building, the Corn Mill has two or three different restaurant sections which helps create a cosy atmosphere.
Those who had starters chose the salmon and smoked haddock fishcake with tomatoes, spring onion and lemon mayonnaise (£4.95). It was an extremely large fishcake and the two types of fish complemented each other well.
Mel, who normally turns his nose up at tomatoes, tucked into his slices of beef tomato with gusto - I’ll have to buy them in the future!
The main course menu is not large but it is varied, with vegetarians well catered for and no less than five fish dishes. I would have loved to have shared the seafood platter - sardines, smoked salmon, mussels, smoked mackerel, fishcakes and king prawns with anchovies, dips and stir fry noodles (enough for four to share, £39.95) but could not persuade my fellow diners to give it a try.
Instead I went for fish stew - an Anglicised version of bouillabaisse. I was delighted with the amount of fish, amongst it monkfish, cod, scallops, prawns and mussels, and the tomato-based sauce was very tasty.
I would have loved to have more sauce and perhaps a more rustic baguette.
As it was a Sunday there were three roasts on the menu and Carol went for beef while Nigel chose shoulder of lamb (£12.50).
Carol’s worry that it might prove too fatty for him was unfounded, the meat had been trimmed and cooked perfectly.
Their meals arrived with the largest portion of vegetables for two I had ever seen, a melange of mange tour, French beans and broccoli as well as peas in a ham sauce and red cabbage. All seven of us tucked in yet couldn’t finish the dish - very impressive.
Mel was disappointed there were no steaks on that day’s menu - a few days later I noticed a steak with peppercorn sauce he would have loved. But he was satisfied when he realised he could have a sirloin steak sandwich with onion marmalade and hand cut chips.
“It was far better than I had thought it would be, an excellent piece of steak,” he said.
The teenagers were also able to chose lighter bites despite being in the restaurant. And like Mel they were impressed with the Corn Mill’s versions of ‘burgers and hot dogs’.
Sophie and Joe’s burgers turned out to be huge, homemade burgers, at least an inch thick topped with bacon and melted cheese, while Emma had not one but two tasty sausages in baguettes. A bit crumbly but certainly one of the best he’d ever had, was Joe’s verdict.
With such enormous portions, and a birthday cake looming, the only desserts we could face were ice-creams and sorbets, which were delicious.
Our waitress, who had replaced an obviously tired waiter coming to the end of his shift, brought us plates, knives and napkins without being asked and renditions of Happy Birthday and Sweet Sixteen brought our afternoon out in Llangollen to an end.
ADDRESS
The Corn Mill, Dee Lane, Llangollen
Tel (01978) 869555
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Pan fried pigeon breast with wilted spinach and caramelised onion sauce (£5.65), Grilled sardines with rocket and roast fennel salad and tomato dressing (£5.25).
Main courses
Grilled fillet of brill with saute potatoes and mussel and basil sauce (£14.45), Roast Welsh beef with Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, vegetables and gravy.
Sides
Garlic Bread (£2.50), Cauliflower Cheese (£2.50)
Desserts
Baked blackcherry cheesecake (£4.95), Barabrith bread and butter pudding with apricot sauce and clotted cream (£4.95)
ATMOSPHERE
A warm atmosphere appreciated by those coming in from the cold.
SERVICE
A waiter having a bad day was thankfully replaced by a much friendlier waiteress.
DISABLED FACILITIES
Disabled toilet on the first floor level although flagstones may be a problem. Wheelchair users could get to main restaurant via outside decking.
SMOKING POLICY
No smoking in the restaurant area.
By Sue Austin
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