New Inn, Baschurch : Shropshire Star:

Rating: *** In August 2005, Marcus and Jenny Bean bought the New Inn, at Baschurch. Their dream was to turn it into one of Shropshire’s finest bistro-style restaurants.

In the intervening months, they have started to realise some of their ambitions. But they still have a long way to go before the New Inn can rank among Shropshire’s finest eateries.

My wife and I made a late reservation for a table on a Friday evening. Sadly, there were only two other like-minded couples. When we arrived at the New Inn we were staggered to find ourselves among just six diners on one of the restaurant industry’s busiest nights of the week. The number of staff matched the number of diners eating. No matter.

We were shown to our table by a youthful and effervescent restaurant manageress, who took a keen interest in how we had come to hear about the New Inn.

The interior was easy on the eye and reflected good taste on the part of owners Marcus and Jenny.

Furnished in neutral colours with plenty of wood, candles and accessories, the dining room was relaxing and comfortable. The light tones made for a pleasing ambience.

Soon, we were handed menus that were packed full of bistro favourites. Marcus and Jenny take great pride in preparing all of their dishes fresh on the premises, from stocks through to fancy puds. But we were surprised that there were so many different things to choose from.

Better menus at other venues feature a smaller number of dishes that are cooked to perfection. In the best restaurants, less is often more.

My wife started with the smoked salmon and free range scrambled egg served on a toasted muffin. It was pleasant without winning her over. I opted for the grilled goats cheese on a bed of mixed leaves with a balsamic reduction and parmesan wafers.

The savoury goats cheese was well complemented by the sweet and sticky balsamic reduction but the dish lacked a sense of pizazz and fell a little flat.

The young waitresses hovered throughout and asked whether we were enjoying our food. But their inquiries were half-hearted and they spent most of their time slouched against the bar, gossiping with each other. We had ample time between our starters and main courses and were pleased when they arrived.

My wife had opted for the wild mushroom risotto topped with parmesan shavings. It was OK, but lacked the kind of gritty earthiness that would have made it a classic dish. I went for the pork fillet topped with pear and stilton, brulee pears and a sage and calvados jus.

Like the food that went before, it failed to inspire. The fillet was a huge chunk of meat that had been cooked with little skill. And the pear and jus left little lasting impression. The food was simply too bland. It lacked any real flavour.

The other diners at The New Inn seemed to enjoy their dinners. But it was disconcerting eating in a room with so few people.

While it is always pleasing to have plenty of room and a good table, the joy of such privilege soon fades when it is the result of there being hardly any other customers.

For dessert, we shared the mille feuille of homemade shortbread with summer fruits and mascarpone cream. It was a winner.

The shortbread was perfect and the cream and fruits were an ideal match. It was the first course that we had thoroughly enjoyed, though we felt it was all too little too late.

We finished with coffee and chocolates then we were engaged in conversation by the charming and attentive restaurant manageress. She took a genuine interest in our impressions of the New Inn and listened to our thoughts with enthusiasm. By 9.30pm, we were making our way across the empty car park and were passed by two of the waitresses who had earlier served us.

The restaurant had been so quiet that they had been told they could finish for the evening and were already on their way home - before some of their diners.

Marcus and Jenny have laudable ambitions for the New Inn and have made an effective transformation. There are pleasant bistro staples on their menu and the ingredients are locally produced and fresh. But their venture is in need of fine tuning. Food needs to be prepared with greater skill so that the wonderful ingredients are brought to life. Concentrating on perfecting fewer dishes would help them to achieve that. Their waitresses also need to be brought to life. Standing around gossiping in a dining room creates a poor impression and devalues what should be a good night out.

But there is cause for optimism. Marcus and Jenny both have plenty of experience, having spent two decades in the industry. Their know-how should be enough to revitalise a venue that should be bustling with customers, like the nearby Saracen’s Head. It is a challenge they can be expected to rise to.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Soup of the day(£4.50)

Antipasti (£6.75)

Main courses

Rump of lamb with hazlenut and olive crust (£13.95)

Sides

Mixed salad (£2)

Garlic bread (£2.50)

Desserts

Fruit crumble (£4.95)

Chocolate brownie (£4.95)