The Danery, Quatford : Shropshire Star:

Rating: *** There were rabbits scampering around the car park when we arrived at the Danery (locally pronounced Denree) at Quatford, near Bridgnorth.

Perhaps these audacious conies know the Danery rifle shooting team no longer shoots at this village pub, so were feeling safe. There are certainly a few local marksmen capable of scoring a “possible” (a shooting term) and would easily have knocked over a few bunnies.

I half expected to find rabbit was a chef’s special when we went inside. No it wasn’t, but there was a long and tempting menu available.

The Danery displayed its choices, including the September specials, on a board in the entrance porch, which I believe displays confidence as well as consideration.

Similar consideration inside from the regulars at the bar as well as the serving staff who were welcoming and amiable, chatting about anything and everything (including, would you believe, the Shropshire Star and critical food reviews). Had we been rumbled? Apparently not.

We sat down with glasses of Merlot and checked out the “pub grub” cod and chips from £5.95, the half chicken and chips or jacket potatoes for £8.50 to the 10-ounce sirloin for £12.50. The dozen September specials looked enticing, with options like pork medallions with apple and black pudding, and the trout with almonds and honey.

Only three starters available, soup, prawn cocktail and patŽ. I asked for the patŽ (£4.50) and Libby the side dish of garlic bread (£1.50).

The method in her madness was that she’d pinch some of my patŽ, which actually worked out very well as I had two generous slices of smooth, moderately strong patŽ with toast, a dish of relish and a crisp salad. To have eaten it all myself would have been piggish.

They weren’t too busy in the restaurant on Wednesday evening so at one stage we had three young waitresses serving and checking if everything was all right. (The thought occurred to me that if they had served rabbit they would have been bunny girls.)

It also occurred to me that the dining area was previously the rifle range - but thankfully no one was armed in the Danery that night. We aimed to test out the comfort and quality of the hospitality, and so far everything was fine.

It wasn’t too long before the lamb shank with mint jus (£9.80) was presented with my side dish of chips. Looked good, tasted good, perhaps a fraction over-cooked, and bags of it. I cleared everything, except for a few chips, and had more than my half share of the dish of carrots, peas and broccoli.

Libby had the more modest portion of veg (which were over-cooked for her taste) but devoured the no-nonsense liver and onions and mash (£7.50) with enthusiasm. It was full-flavoured lamb’s liver, and easily justified her second large glass of red wine.

With such a run of good things we didn’t stop there.

I then ordered the Bailey’s cheesecake with ice-cream (£3.50) and Libby the Bailey’s creme brulee (£3.50). I polished mine off and Libby ate most of her’s and mumbled something about another couple of seconds with the blowtorch which I thought was a bit picky.

So that was just about it. Just my coffee and mint (£1.20) and Libby’s complimentary hot lemon water. It was pretty good all round until I tasted my coffee - it was fresh but weak and I like it strong (which Libby thought was a bit picky).

If you find yourself on the way to Kidderminster (pronounced Kiddie locally) look out for the Danery tucked away beneath the red sandstone church at Quatford.

It serves real ale with Enville Ale, Butty Bach by Wye Valley Brewery and Wood’s Shropshire Lad available last week.

It does food every day and every evening, with a children’s menu, a couple of vegetarian options, sandwiches and baked potatoes.

And look out for the bunnies.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Prawn cocktail (£4.50)

Pate (£4.50).

Main courses

Breaded plaice with chips or jacket potato (£6.95); steak and kidney pie with chips

or jacket potato (£7.95) .

Sides

Onion rings (£1.50)