Rating **** We often travel many miles to find a pub or restaurant serving good food. But how often do we bother to look on our own doorstep especially if, like me, you tend to eat out more if you are away from home. With our children spirited away by relatives for a week Mel and I decided to be local tourists.
We walked into Ellesmere and enjoyed an early evening stroll along the beautiful Llangollen canal before calling into the Black Lion for a meal.
And we were pleasantly surprised. It was a world away from our courting days when the choice was chicken and chips or scampi and chips — in a basket of course -although the pub side of the Black Lion has remained remarkably unchanged. In fact I would even dare to suggest it needs a little bit of TLC.
In contrast, there is now a lovely outdoor terrace that has been created in a relatively small space and the restaurant, tiny all those decades ago, has been extended over the years and has a modern yet also Victorian feel about it.
The food too is a mix of the modern and the traditional. For instance we both chose popular starters with an unusual twist. Mel had his favourite mushrooms in a creamy sauce. But they were served in a Yorkshire pudding which he declared a winning touch, a different taste and texture from the usual bread.
I chose Brie and Cranberry Paquettes. Rather than the more usual deep breadcrumbed version the brie and cranberry sauce were hidden in filo pastry parcels a much nicer combination. The pastry had a nice crunch to it and with not a hint of greasiness. They were accompanied by an interesting side salad.
My main course caused me a problem — too many choices. During the middle of the heatwave the salmon in a prawn sauce almost won the day. But I have to thank Andy, a regular resident in the hotel, for recommending the shoulder of lamb.
I again chose the version with a twist, served with the chef’s own barbeque sauce. It was described as cooked slowly until it falls off the bone and it certainly did that.
It was a great choice even though I would have called it a lamb shank as it was the bottom and much tastier end of the shoulder.
There was so much meat I struggled to finish and there was also loads of tasty barbeque sauce which suited me down to the ground.
Mel had gammon and like me he chose it smothered with barbeque sauce, There was supposed to be melted cheese as well but we think that was missed out! Still he also enjoyed the sauce on his large piece of gammon.
The size of the portions proved to me that the Black Lion’s decision to charge extra for the side dishes was the right one. Most of the main dishes, apart from the steaks, are priced at around five to six pounds, terrific value. However that does not include potatoes, vegetables or salad, each an extra £1.50. So you could easily add another £3 or more to the meal. However I just had vegetables, including excellent red cabbage. When I asked how it was cooked one of the staff returned with the recipe he begged me to keep a secret. I won’t give the game away but I will certainly be trying out the recipe.
Mel had a side order of chips and we had a little of each other’s choice — even with our appetites there was more than enough.
Mel was so full he declined a desert. But after a decent pause I went for the lemon bavarois. This was both good value and delicious, a good mix of a creamy cold base with a tart lemon topping and I am sure would have been on the menu at many establishments for much more than at the Black Lion.
We enjoyed our evening in the company of other tourists including a smashing group of people with learning disabilities who were a pleasure to share a restaurant with . They, as we and all the diners were, made to feel very special by all the staff who also obviously enjoyed their company.
MENU SAMPLEStarters
Chef’s pate with brandy (£2.95); garlic and melted cheese baguette (£1.95).
Main courses
Poached salmon served in a creamy prawn sauce (£5.95); 10oz rib eye steak (£7.25).
Sides
Potatoes, chips, side salad (all £1.50).
Desserts
Chocolate caramale parfait and raspberry swirl cheesecake (both £2.95).
ATMOSPHERE
Relaxing and friendly.
SERVICE
Attentive and thoughtful, such as the much appreciated water already on the table.
DISABLED FACILITIES
Ramps and disabled toilet.
SMOKING POLICY
Non-smoking throughout.
Pub review by Sue Austin
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