Rating **** I’m beginning to get worried. In recent weeks, no matter how hard I try, I just can’t get a bad meal anywhere. Oh, I know, it’s much more entertaining to read food reviews that demolish bars or restaurants.
But, though my critical antennae are fully extended, it seems I’m gravitating exclusively to exceedingly good restaurants and bars.
Take the Frank Cafe Bar, a delightfully laid back, jazzy bar on the banks of the River Severn, in Shrewsbury. It sits on the edge of the Welsh Bridge, in Frankwell.
Each day, Frank is teeming with customers eager to try its funky food or enjoy one of its much-loved cocktails.
The head chef is Stefan Davies, a creative chef who has run the kitchen at Frank Cafe Bar for 18 months. He moved to the establishment after spending 10 years at head chef level in other venues. Immediately, he imposed a refreshing menu with plenty of fish choices.
Stefan’s food is very fresh, uses local ingredients and dishes are prepared to a high standard. He likes to let natural flavours shine through, so there are plenty of good quality ingredients and not too many fancy sauces.
Stefan says: “The bare minimum is done to actual dishes. The best thing to do with a good steak or good piece of fish is let the customers taste it. You don’t need to disguise its flavour.”
The Frank Cafe Bar menu features plenty of fish selections and fresh deliveries are made each day.
There are also daily deliveries of fresh herbs and salads, making it an excellent choice of venue for people who want to watch their weight or who enjoy healthy food. Stefan even has a few tricks up his sleeve.
He explained that he lived only a short walk from the cafe bar. “I’m a local man and I love fresh produce. At home, I grow lots of herbs in my rockery. So, if we’re ever short, I nip home and harvest fresh dill, chives, basil or sage. It doesn’t get any fresher than that.”
My wife and I decided to visit on a warm, summery, midweek lunchtime. We were instantly impressed with the atmosphere and surrounds. Frank specialises in cocktails, champagne and good vibes. There were mellow sounds emanating from the sound system and we made our way to an old wooden table.
Frank is an impressive mix of the new and the old. There were plenty of contemporary artworks adorning walls while the unique features associated with listed buildings were not overpowered.
I opted for an innovative monkfish tail biryani, served on a bed of coriander and cumin rice with a delightful tomato masala. It was a triumph. The meaty monkfish was cooked with great skill, the masala was better than that on offer at most local curry houses and the fragrant rice was a winner.
My wife opted for the Scottish mussels, steamed open with Tio Pepe, garlic and basil and served with chunks of bread. The bread was divine, I stole half of her walnut bread and her sundried tomato bread, while the mussels were first class.
Our visit to Frank was that rarest of things. It met, then exceeded, all of our expectations. It’s a venue that can be relied upon for laid back lunches, it’s the perfect spot for meeting friends and the food is genuinely good.
Stefan’s menu puts a new twist on classic dishes, features exquisite ingredients and leaves diners looking forward to more.
There are plenty of other dishes that demand attention, like Scottish king scallops served with salsa, the Frank Club Sandwich, with bacon, chicken, avocado and chilli mayo and pan fried Herefordshire sirloin.
Frank is the perfect reason to visit Shrewsbury’s Frankwell. Not only does it serve excellent food, it also offers visitors the chance to relax in delightful surrounds.
And with prices extremely reasonable — our lunch with drinks came in at £25 — it’s a venue that people should visit with confidence.contact details
ADDRESS:
Frank Cafe Bar, Frankwell, Shrewsbury
Tel: 01743 354422
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Organic smoked salmon on granary (£3.50), Lime garlic hummus with pizza (£3.50)
Main courses
Arctic prawns in salsa with lemon and chive mayo (£6.50)
Sides
Five olive mix (£4)
Desserts
Fig and white chocolate crumble (£4.50)
ATMOSPHERE
Very sophisticated. Frank is a place to impress. It’s vibrant and buzzy.
SERVICE
Good, though very laid back. Waiters are the sort of people you’d usually find at pop festivals
DISABLED FACILITIES
Not great because it is in a Listed building
SMOKING POLICY
Smoking and non-smoking areas
Bar review by Andy Richardson
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