Stiperstones Inn, Snailbeach

Rating: **** Walking into the Stiperstones Inn is like stepping back in time.There is a roaring coal fire in the middle of the lounge with a cat, called Skittles, lying lazily in front of it. At the bar, there are men who look as though they’ve been sat in the same chair for 40 years.

Everybody knows everybody else and the talk is of tomorrow’s football match featuring the village team. There are spare walking sticks in the corner for ramblers who are fresh from the hills and a good selection of real ales at the bar.

We dropped into the Stiperstones Inn on a Friday night and it surpassed all of our expectations. It was a venue unlike any that you would find in any town or city. It was a picture of of authenticity.

The ornaments were real, the pictures on the walls were by local artists and the carpet was a shabby patterned affair, perfect for down-at-heel ambience of this venue.

The pub has won awards for being the best traditional inn in the area and it wasn’t difficult to understand why.

The Stiperstones Inn is owned by Lara Sprowson, an avuncular licensee whose family has kept the pub for 38 years.

The landlord is Phil Jones, a cheery man who is popular with the locals. Together, they make sure the beer is of good quality, the food is first class and customers are treated like friends — rather than plain old punters.

We called in on a Friday night and the pub was jam-packed.

We made our way through the lounge — taking care not to trip over Skittles — and were shown into a small dining room.

The menu featured a selection of traditional dishes, like steak and chips, pies, curries and chilli. There were also plenty of appetising starters on offer.

As we perused the menu, we noticed the towering stacks of food being heaved to other diners. The portions were huge and we thought it better not to eat starters as well as our main courses.

My wife opted for a chicken and leek pie, which was served with chips and salad. It was a snip at £5.95. The delicious pie was made with tender chicken pieces and a creamy leek sauce.

It was encased in an impressive shortcrust pastry.

I opted for the fillet steak and was delighted that I had. Served in an eight-ounce portion, the lean cut came medium rare and was served with fried mushrooms and onions. It was good, honest-to-goodness food, prepared with no little skill. It cost just £9.95.

The menu also offered the option to “Go Large” at no extra cost. Though, considering the size of the portions we ate, it was difficult to imagine what going large would mean.

The dessert list featured the type of puddings that are long lost from many modern menus. I was torn between three but eventually opted for the golden suet pudding, at £2.75.

It was outrageously fattening and I loved every mouthful. The old fashioned, individual steamed pudding was coated with golden syrup, topped with stem ginger and served hot with custard.

My wife opted for a Grand Marnier meringue gateau, which cost £2.95. It was made up of layers of meringue sandwiched together with fresh cream, flaked chocolate and Grand Marnier liqueur. It won my wife’s approval.

We enjoyed drinks and had plenty of spare change from our budget.

The following day, we went out walking across the Stiperstones. Of course, the real reason for our walk was so that we could drop into the Stiperstones Inn for a second time and sample more of its food.

I fancied the whinberry pie, my wife having enjoyed such high quality pastry the evening before. However, in the interests of research, I opted for the whinberry crumble, made from the local whinberries — or, blueberries — that grow on the surrounding hills. The crumble wasn’t great but the fruit was tart .

Fans of food will disagree about most things. One man’s foie gras custard with sweetcorn cream is another man’s liver and veg. Some people love traditional food, others love more contemporary styles, while others still delight in rare and exotic flavours.

But something that all foodies agree on is this: The mark of a good restaurant is one that you pay money to return to.

There was one criticism from us, which was the closeness of the kitchen to the dining area. No diner wants to hear the sound of a microwave pinging, moments before their food arrives.

Nonetheless, the atmosphere at the Stiperstones Inn is warm and welcoming. It’s intrinsically rural, well run and popular with local residents. We’ll be back again. It really is that good.

ADDRESS:
The Stiperstone Inn, Snailbeach
Tel: 01743 791327

MENU SAMPLE:

Starters:
Soup of the day (£2.50).

Main courses:
Lamb shank (£6.95), Rogan Josh (£6.95).

Sides:
Prawn salad (£4.50). Cheese salad (£3.50).

Desserts:
Apple crumble (£2.75).

ATMOSPHERE:
A strong point. The Stiperstones is a cosy and informal place.

SERVICE:
Friendly and polite. Staff are jokey rather than sleek.

DISABLED FACILITIES:
Not great. The pub is a listed building with lots of steps.

SMOKING POLICY:
Smoking allowed.