Rating: ***** Haughton is a village just over the Shropshire/Staffordshire border that hundreds of people from Shropshire travel through but perhaps never have a reason to stop — well now I’ve found the perfect reason.
After their success at the award-winning Plum Pudding in Armitage, Diane and Jit Takhar embarked on the refurbishment and extension programme of The Shropshire.
They closed the doors for 10 weeks and renovated the bar area and introduced a brasserie.
My boyfriend, John, and I are always keen to try somewhere new and after seeing the place had obviously had more than a lick of paint we decided to visit.
As we entered we were given a warm welcome by a member of staff before meeting the landlady, Diane.
At 7.30pm on a Saturday evening, four weeks after opening, the brasserie was already bustling with diners.
We were invited to enjoy a drink in the bar but our appetites led us to go straight to the table. It was nice to see that all of the tables were spaced out far enough for everyone to enjoy the brasserie’s intimacy.
When it comes to starters I predictably order soup of the day but The Shropshire menu allowed me to go a little ‘adventurous’. I chose the breast of partridge with garlic potatoes and a light port jus (£5.95).
John went for the pan-fried king scallops on lemon and thyme puree with port and balsamic dressing (£6.75).
After reading the menu which states that everything is freshly cooked to order using the finest fresh produce which can create a ’small wait’ at busy times, we became tempted by the appetiser of home-made mixed breads with olives, balsamic vinegar and olive oil (£3.50).
These were soon polished off, particularly John’s favourite — bread cooked with Branston pickle in the middle.
We were given just enough time, but not kept waiting too long, until our starters arrived.
My first-time experience of partridge will certainly be repeated after I enjoyed the more-than-tender meat, with garlic potatoes and port jus which complemented the dish perfectly.
As John’s knife slid through his scallops, that was enough proof for me that there was a first class chef in the kitchen, as so many times before I’ve seen them served over-cooked or even worse under-cooked.
After our dishes were cleared, the landlady, Diane, who is obviously a hands-on boss, offered us more drinks and told us about the refurbishment after we complimented the wonderful brasserie.
Despite their commitments in Armitage, Diane said they wanted to meet as many people as possible in the village and would be working at The Shropshire as much as they could.
After the chat with Diane our main courses arrived in what seemed like no time at all.
As I looked at the wonderfully thick cut of fillet of Staffordshire beef served on a horseradish and chilli mash with red onion jus, (£15.95) my biggest concern was that there was no steak knife. That was for one good reason — I didn’t need one.
My knife glided through the first class beef with ease and for once in my dining history it was cooked perfectly as I’d asked medium to well done. In my boyfriend’s words it was ‘unbelievable’ and he wasn’t the one enjoying the wonderful taste.
I could see he was jealous as I tucked into my fillet, but that soon went as he tried his choice of pan roasted pork fillet, fondant potato, braised shallot and garlic with port wine jus (£12.95).
Both plates, which only showed the remains of the jus when they were cleared, proved how much we had enjoyed the two fantastic dishes.
All of the main meals are served with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables but a must for any table is a side order of home-made chunky chips.
We couldn’t possibly eat another thing but when Diane offered us the sweet menu, neither of us could resist.
The ‘Shrop’ sticky toffee pudding won the battle and although we had the chance of two spoons, we were greedy and went for two dishes instead.
I asked for the honeycomb ice-cream while John went for the Bailey’s ice-cream and again our expectations were exceeded.
I cannot remember the last time I have dined out and had such first class service, atmosphere and food.
By Kirsty Marston
ADDRESS:
The Shropshire, Newport Road, Haughton.
Tel: (01785) 780904
MENU SAMPLE:
Starters:
Pressed smoked ham hock and black pudding terrine with garlic cream and bitter leaves (5.25); roasted crab and avocado cake with chilli and cherry tomato jam (£5.75).
Main courses:
Rack of Staffordshire lamb with spinach and roquet soufflŽ, roasted garlic and onion dauphinoise with sherry jus (£15.55); Roasted vegetable and polenta lasagne topped with brie rarebit (£9.95).
Desserts:
Homemade sticky toffee pudding with pecan ice-cream; selection of cheeses from £4.95
ATMOSPHERE:
Relaxed — intimate for couples but also ideal for groups.
SERVICE:
Friendly, welcoming and efficient.
DISABLED FACILITIES:
Suitable for wheelchair users
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